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- 13 705 006
Nick Schade
United States
Приєднався 13 лип 2006
Boat building and Sea Kayaking clips by Nick Schade of Guillemot Kayaks - www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
I started building boats around 1980 starting with a crappy little raft for a race on the Connecticut River. It fell apart before completing the race. Since then I continue to try to figure out how to makes better boats. I never build boats exactly the same way so don't take anything you see here as the only way to do it.
I started kayaking in about 1972 after my father built a kit he found in the back of some magazine. My brother was older so he always claimed dibs on the kayak. Time in kayaks now compensates for any resentment I had for him using the kayak when I wanted to.
I started building boats around 1980 starting with a crappy little raft for a race on the Connecticut River. It fell apart before completing the race. Since then I continue to try to figure out how to makes better boats. I never build boats exactly the same way so don't take anything you see here as the only way to do it.
I started kayaking in about 1972 after my father built a kit he found in the back of some magazine. My brother was older so he always claimed dibs on the kayak. Time in kayaks now compensates for any resentment I had for him using the kayak when I wanted to.
A Beautiful Varnish Finish Depends on Prep Work - Petrel Play SG - E28
Bill and I prep the Petrel Play SG kayak for varnish and apply the first coat. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA.
Nick and Bill meticulously sand and apply the first coat of varnish to the Petrel sea kayak kit from Chesapeake Light Craft. Nick shares tips on using coarse sandpaper for leveling, custom tools for tight spaces, and efficient varnishing techniques, emphasizing the importance of working quickly and maintaining a wet edge.
Petrel Play SG Plans: guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/stitch-and-glue/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak-solo/petrel-play-sg
Petrel Play SG Kit at @CLCBoats1 : bit.ly/46LoS3O
Support my Patreon to Help Produce More Videos: www.patreon.com/NickSchade
0:00 - Introduction and Project Overview
0:21 - Sanding Material Preparation
10:03 - Sanding Techniques and Tips
19:21 - Preparing for Varnishing
40:46 - Applying the Varnish Coat
51:23 - Varnishing Techniques and Reflections
Nick and Bill meticulously sand and apply the first coat of varnish to the Petrel sea kayak kit from Chesapeake Light Craft. Nick shares tips on using coarse sandpaper for leveling, custom tools for tight spaces, and efficient varnishing techniques, emphasizing the importance of working quickly and maintaining a wet edge.
Petrel Play SG Plans: guillemot-kayaks.com/catalog/stitch-and-glue/sea-kayak-recreational-kayak-solo/petrel-play-sg
Petrel Play SG Kit at @CLCBoats1 : bit.ly/46LoS3O
Support my Patreon to Help Produce More Videos: www.patreon.com/NickSchade
0:00 - Introduction and Project Overview
0:21 - Sanding Material Preparation
10:03 - Sanding Techniques and Tips
19:21 - Preparing for Varnishing
40:46 - Applying the Varnish Coat
51:23 - Varnishing Techniques and Reflections
Переглядів: 1 739
Відео
Why Drill Holes in a Good Kayak? plus Sanding - Petrel Play SG - E27
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Місяць тому
I do some more sanding and drill holes in the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. Nick Schade methodically works through the crucial steps of preparing a kayak for a flawless varnish finish. He demonstrates techniques for cleaning up drips, leveling the surface through sanding, and prepping for...
Sanding and Leveling a Stitch-and-Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG - E26
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Місяць тому
Bill and I sand the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. In this episode, Nick and Bill tackle the crucial sanding and leveling process on their Petrel Play SG sea kayak project. Using coarse sandpaper and specialized tools, they methodically work to remove high spots and create a smooth, even s...
The Wonders of Bias Cut Glass - Petrel Play SG - E25
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Bill and I use bias-cut fiberglass on the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. In this workshop episode, expert boat builder Nick Schade guides his friend Bill through the process of fiberglassing key areas on their Chesapeake Light Craft stitch-and-glue kayak kit. With careful instruction, they...
Cleaning up Edges - Petrel Play SG - E24
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Bill and I smooth surfaces in preparation for spot fiberglassing items on the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. Nick Schade and his friend Bill methodically prepare the deck, combing, and hull of the Petrel Play SG kit boat for additional fiberglass layups. They remove tape, round edges, addr...
Glassing the Deck - Petrel Play SG - E23
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Bill and I fiberglass the deck on to the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. Nick and Bill work on fiberglassing the deck of a Petrel Play kayak kit, addressing challenges like staining touch-ups, containing epoxy messes, managing cloth tensions, and strategically cutting and patching to resolve bridging. Nick meticulously applies fill...
Prepping a Kayak Deck for Fiberglass- Petrel Play SG - E22
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Bill and I prep the deck of the Petrel Play SG kayak for fiberglass. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. In this series we will take you through a step-by-step process of converting a pile of wood bits in to a beautiful, functional kayak. Nick guides the viewer through preparing a kayak deck for fiberglass applicati...
Precision Seam Taping - Petrel Play SG - E21
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Bill and I glass the inside seam on the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. In this series we will take you through a step-by-step process of converting a pile of wood bits in to a beautiful, functional kayak. Nick and Bill continue building a Petrel Play sea kayak kit, focusing on applying fib...
Mating the Deck and Hull - Petrel Play SG - E20
Переглядів 1,8 тис.2 місяці тому
Bill and I clean up the deck and hull edges and strap the deck on the hull of the Petrel Play SG kayak. We are building the Petrel Play SG kayak design from a kit by Chesapeake Light Craft (CLCBoats.com) bit.ly/3uRnqzA. We begin by cleaning up the sheer line between the deck and hull, sanding down any rough spots or epoxy drips. Next, they prepare the hull in a similar manner, ensuring a smooth...
Installing the Skeg Box, Control Slot & Cheek Plates - Petrel Play SG - E19
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Installing the Skeg Box, Control Slot & Cheek Plates - Petrel Play SG - E19
Interior Systems - Petrel Play SG - E18
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Interior Systems - Petrel Play SG - E18
Thinking Ahead on the Stitch-and-Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG - E17
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Thinking Ahead on the Stitch-and-Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG - E17
Around Fishers Island - 30km in 3 minutes
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Around Fishers Island - 30km in 3 minutes
Skeg Parts and End Pour - Petrel Play SG - E16
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Skeg Parts and End Pour - Petrel Play SG - E16
Handcrafting a Kayak: Glassing Components for Protection and Strength - Petrel Play SG - E15
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Handcrafting a Kayak: Glassing Components for Protection and Strength - Petrel Play SG - E15
Mastering Kayak Fiberglassing: Tips and Tricks - Petrel Play SG - E14
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Mastering Kayak Fiberglassing: Tips and Tricks - Petrel Play SG - E14
Stitch & Glue Kayak Hull Preparation: Shaping Seams & Stems for Fiberglassing - Petrel Play SG - E13
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Stitch & Glue Kayak Hull Preparation: Shaping Seams & Stems for Fiberglassing - Petrel Play SG - E13
Mastering Fiberglass Application: Kayak Interior Build Techniques - Petrel Play SG - E12
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Mastering Fiberglass Application: Kayak Interior Build Techniques - Petrel Play SG - E12
Creating Flawless Fillets - Petrel Play SG - E11
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Creating Flawless Fillets - Petrel Play SG - E11
Wiring and Spotwelding the Deck - Petrel Play SG - E10
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Wiring and Spotwelding the Deck - Petrel Play SG - E10
Crafting the Perfect Kayak Deck: Stitching and Gluing Mastery - Petrel Play Build - E9
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Crafting the Perfect Kayak Deck: Stitching and Gluing Mastery - Petrel Play Build - E9
Heat, Bend, Assemble: A Deep Dive into S&G Kayak Hatch Construction - Petrel Play SG - E8
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Heat, Bend, Assemble: A Deep Dive into S&G Kayak Hatch Construction - Petrel Play SG - E8
Fill Coat, Puzzle Joints, & Fixing Mistakes - Building Petrel Play SG - E7
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Fill Coat, Puzzle Joints, & Fixing Mistakes - Building Petrel Play SG - E7
The Art of Kayak Interior Fiberglass: A Detailed How-To Guide - Petrel Play SG Build - E6
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The Art of Kayak Interior Fiberglass: A Detailed How-To Guide - Petrel Play SG Build - E6
Epoxy Fillet Fundamentals on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E5
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Epoxy Fillet Fundamentals on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E5
Making Kayaks with Superglue - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.4
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Making Kayaks with Superglue - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.4
Stitching the Hull on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.3
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Stitching the Hull on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.3
Setting Up the Hull on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.2
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Setting Up the Hull on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.2
Assembling the Hull Panels on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.1
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Assembling the Hull Panels on a Stitch and Glue Kayak - Petrel Play SG Build - E4.1
I still find a finger gives me the best result
I noticed you removed the masking tape along the shear line after the first coat of varnish. Would you do that with every coat - remove the tape and reapply the tape before another coat?
Generally, for most varnish, yes, remove the tape and add new with each coat.
At roughly minute 13:00 you talk about trying to go after the shiny spot without leaving a bit of a hollow. Would alternative be to fill those shiny spot with just a touch of epoxy to the shiny spot (after roughing) and then sanding the created slight mound?
Yes, If you can not get the surface to a uniform sanded surface without sanding into the glass, add more resin. If it is just a few isolated spots it is possible to carefully fill those spots, but it can be tricky to sand those spots fair due to the step between the filled area and its surrounding area.
Dear Nick, We have greatly missed your videos(shorts) and would appreciate it if you could consider releasing more frequently.
I'm getting them out as fast as I can. I've been away teaching for the past few weeks. I'm in the shop this week completing the build. Then I'm away from the shop for a month. I hope I an edit the videos while I am away, but I'm going to be somewhere that internet connectivity is very bad. Hopefully, I'll be able to get the videos uploaded.
Dear Nick, I purchased digital plans for the Runner model. I wrote you an email, I await your response. (Ramiro Osawa) Thanks.
Nick is that large flat sander a Festool product?
No, it by Hutchins, I got it through Jamestown www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/2311
@@NickSchadethank you
What is that operation at about 13:41, is that vacuum bagging? I did not know that was part of the strip plank building process.
It is vacuum infusion. It is not a standard part of the strip plank method, but it produces a very good layup with a minimum of resin, saving weight and making a stronger layup. I’ve only done it on a couple boats. It’s a lot more work.
Only someone who kayaks will appreciate the tranquility and mindfulness that it brings. A few years ago my brother in law and I paddled the Caledonian canal from fort william to inverness in the Scottish Highlands which included loch ness. Beautiful place!
I really enjoy my morning paddles
Metric?
The plans include metric measurements
@NickSchade If you wanted to stain the whole hull rather then a pattern like you used here. Would it be advisable to stain the boat now? after touching up glue drips and overhangs but before the fiberglass? Is there a reason not to do that?
It is best to apply stain before you do any assembly. Any glue or epoxy will resist the stain and be hard to even out.
Really helpful videos - thanks. I was concerned about the finish on my CLC kayak but now have a handle on how to proceed.
Glad it helped!
Any way to get plans on this, or the frame and location files?
I still have not finalize the plans for sale. Still on the project list, but things can take time when you are a one-person operation.
Hey Nick, any news on when the next episode of E29 is coming out? Was 28 the finale?
I am off teaching for a few weeks and need to shoot the final couple episodes. There may be a gap as I get caught up, but the series is not done yet.
Thanks 🍻👨🏻🏭🇨🇦
Despite your best efforts, I have been enjoying the series and learning a lot. I am keen to build one of these when I get home to Canada next year. Is the Petrel Play a good choice for a lake and (calm) river kayak (day tripping mainly), or do you have another model that would be more appropriate?
Yes, the Petrel Play would make a great boat for lakes and calm rivers. It is comfortable, stable and easy to handle
I regret never hitting the surf when I lived in Storrs. Let’s just say there ain’t a lotta surf in Austin, TX.
There are a bunch of good venues for surf in the area here.
Nick - since you're coming to the end of this project. Do you think you might look for another Colab with CLC to do a Hybrid? I think folks have seen how 'Do Able' stitch and Glue is -- the logical progression is S&G would be a Strip Built Deck boat. The beauty of the wood strip (Where it mostly seen and the swiftness of the S&G build below the waterline. It is my next project when I get the Sea Island Sport, Wood Duckling and a Coot finished from plans off of Fyne Boats UK
I will certainly think about it. I think it could be a good idea.
It would have taken me many nights thinking about those mysterious water marks and what they really are. Thanks for restful nights in the future. Another great video. Thanks for sharing.
Absoluten Respekt für den Schiffbauer .Es ist ein geniales Kajak.
Thank you
I like Jen brand foam brushes. There are a lot of inferior brushes out there !
I’m happy Jen is still making them. I had a source of superior chip brushes, but they disappeared.
Looks really good!
The results are looking amazing, i must bring myself to start building a kayak, i'm planning to do that for a way too long, i thought to build the guillemot kayak from your book, i even cut the forms once but didn't start the actual build, seeing the result of a SG i think that i'll do the guillemot SG one instead of the strip. And i guess that i am the one you talked about in the end that stick with the series and have not subscribed. Thanks for all the videos.
Getting started on the project is always the hardest part for me
Is there a problem with glueing from the top other than aesthetics? I managed to clamp it to a table with a silicone sheet under it and thought I’d give it a perimeter of super glue around it. Looks dead flat around the edges.
No, it would just be aesthetics.
Maybe late to the party but here's my question. Working on a little auk 11 using you videos and the strip built kayak book for guidance. Is the coaming recess (page 97) required to receive the coaming itself? Or can I just install the vertical coaming strips to the strips on the deck?
You can install the vertical strips without the recess. This will make for a coaming lip that forms a peak at the front and back. If you have the Kayak Building Notes that came with the plans, you will see an idea for a little mini recess at front and back which makes it easier to form a coaming lip that is smooth and rounded at front and back.
@@NickSchade thanks for the reply, I’ll check the building notes and get to work.
Why varnish? Why not epoxy final coat like on a surfboard???? Thanks
UV will destroy epoxy over time. This is not a problem with surfboards because they aren’t meant to last very long. Varnish protects the epoxy so the kayak can be used for years, with an occasional re-varnishing.
@@NickSchade What about Clear Coat used in the Autobody industry?
What varnish is?
We are using Z-Spar Captains varnish by Pettit. It is a traditional oil-based spar varnish
@@NickSchade thanks for your answer. I thought it was polyurethane.
Looking good!
Thanks!
You definitely want to figure out the most efficient sanding method. I like the dust evacuation.
The dust collection makes the process much cleaner and the sandpaper lasts longer.
@@NickSchade That Net type abrasive works really well in the hand held vacuum connected sanders - I've tried the 'Abra' and the much more economical 'Ali-Abra' -- I didn't notice a lack of performance in the non branded bought off "Ali with speed' - their hand sander (velcro&Dust extract) which has a convex across its width is gold for inside the boat
Always great to get a lesson. One thing I was taught was that you don't PAINT varnish on ... you LAY it on. It helped me
You probably want to lay on paint as well.
Perfect timing Nick. I'm about to revarnish my Guillemot in preparation for the Mystic Wooden Boat show. This video is a big help.
Glad it was helpful! See you at the show
I have been procrastinating revarnishing my kayak but I may have a little more motivation to getting it started. Thanks for all of the tips!
Go for it!
i'm confused, what's the point of this?
I build wood strip boats. These use a lot of strips ripped from the edge of boards. I could cut one at a time or 4 at a time. 4 at a time is quicker
You know Husky tools makes a cheap tool that does exactly that and more for that
The tool made by Husky does not have a flush face, so it would not grab a short staple unless you modified it in exactly the way I did with these end cutters
Thanks, Nick. I’m building your strip built Petral Play and am just getting to the skeg installation. I’ve actually watched this video a couple times now to get it right and should be installed the skeg this weekend. Like the old saying, measure twice, cut once I adapted to watch Nick’s video twice, install the skeg once! I very much appreciate the level of detail. One quick comment - the skeg instructions say to drill a 1/2” hole for the control cable fitting. I could see that would be too large and your video confirmed 3/8” is the correct bit.
Thanks for the correction.
I think the series is a great help for any person wanting to build a S&G boat. And as in your comments at 36:00 minutes, one should watch this series before starting the boat...well in the dead of winter when you have nothing to do (or summer for that matter) we builders would be chomping at the bit if you made a DVD for this build.. Yea I know I mentioned it before...squeaky hinge gets the oil. Great job as always.
What do you see as the benefit to a DVD vs these videos as they are for free on UA-cam?
@@NickSchade I wouldn't have to search for the episodes. I can use it in my shop on a player and not mess up my computer. I realize it would take you a lot of time and effort....just a idea. Nick at CLC the sketch kit is available and if I get the carbon fiber one (skeg) from you there is just miminal fitting....correct? I don't have to glue up any parts on the skeg?
That was skeg kit....not sketch....damn auto correct!
That’s pretty cool. How did you get riving knives into the zero clearance throat plate? Are they made of wood and glued in?
The knife blades are carbon fiber, because thats what I had of the correct thickness. They are set into extensions of the blade slots by raising the blades up through the insert.
See you this weekend!
I need to mill down boards for my boats deck. Why use a table saw over a bandsaw? Looking to get one or the other for the job.
Table saws are really efficient for making long, straight cuts. Circular saw blades leave a very smooth finish. The saw blades I use have a very thin kerf ~1/16-inch [1.6mm] so they don't waste much wood. A band saw will work, but are a bit more prone to wandering and making a ragged cut. You may be able to use a thinner blade for less waste, but the finish is typically not as good, so the yield likely won't be much better.
@@NickSchade Thats good news. Since decent table saws are cheaper than decent bandsaws. I was worried about wood waste, but if you can get thin blades that wont be so bad. Thanks for the info, hopefully ill have my boat float worthy before winter comes along.
What was the name of the product you substituted instead of varnish and were you happy with its performance. Jake v.
I believe I used “Bristol Finish” which is a 2-part varnish substitute.
Я не делаю байдарки, я не работаю с деревом. Но мне очень нравится ваша работа, спасибо за видео.
Я тоже ничего не делаю из этого. Но решился заказать чер тежи)
Been a woodworker since I was introduced to it when I was in Jr High School. Can't imagine all the hours I spent sanding. Did not know about the Planer Saw Rasp. Will have to add it to me assortment of hand tools. Thanks for sharing.
Shinto Wood Rasp. A very nice tool
Lots of good information again.
Glad you think so!
I worked for a body shop and thought they were wasteful with sandpaper and then I realized that's why I never got flat surfaces
I am generally very stingy and don’t like to waste stuff. But sharp sandpaper saves a lot of time and does a better job.
Already made a stich and glue kayak... and a strip canoe a while ago and call it, good enough, not gonna build another... AND yet here i am watching every episode, so relaxing to see a pro la Nick at work, and the commentary is priceless. Thank you!
You never know, you might want to build another.
The commentary is worth its weight in gold. And at the 10-minute mark about sanding -- double-gold.
I hope you find it helpful
What is the model of long board sander and where can I purchase one.
www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/2311
Ohhh!! sticker shock. The 'Fast-Alley' website (so not to name them) have a 'Version' of the top brand 'Murka' adjustable arc long-board for near $20. Or make your own out of Stanley tote and front knob on a length of plywood
The knock off version is also on the shopsite named after an African river
@@stevewales3451 Yes, stupid expensive. I don't think I paid that much but it was a long time ago. I have made several longboards over the years using plywood and other materials. Th key reason I paid for one like this is the dust collection. There are lots of great options that don't include dust collection but the safety factor of limiting dust in the air is harder to achieve. I'm sure with a little thought we could come up with some cheaper solutions, but I haven't yet.
Super job!
Thank you! Cheers!
These may not be your most popular videos, but they are doing me a world of good. I'm going to start a boat build later this year, and you've already taught me several things that I would have learned the hard way! Thank you for taking the time to do this series!
I am very happy with the videos, but I understand that they are more detailed than most casual UA-cam viewers are seeking. It means a lot to me to know that folks like you find them helpful.
By not adding all your fill coats, during a chemical bonding time, you created extra sanding. Adding fill coats while the previous coat, is still tacky, reduces runs. I some times stay up late at night, to add that final fill coat. To me ? It's worth it. What are your thoughts ? I've also been concerned with the clarity of a fill coat, added, when waiting and using the mechanical bond. Thanks again for your time and expertise !
I'm building canoes, I realize, that glassing a kayak, requires a different, method. Again ! Thanks NicK !
We did add the fill coats while the epoxy was still incompletely cured. Then we joined the deck, added the coaming etc. Then after a sanding we did another fill coat. One of the goals of this additional fill coat is to even out the transition between the deck and hull where there is an extra layer of of fiberglass that needs to be feathered in. We also used this time to add some extra layers in high wear areas.
This series came along at the perfect time. I’m currently fixing up a 5’ boat that my girlfriends dad made them when they were kids. Great tips for any epoxy work.
Good luck with your project.